Men's Tailored Dress Shirt Sizing
Direct Answer
Men's formal dress shirts are standardized by two independent anatomical measurements: Collar (Neck) Circumference and Sleeve Length. Expressed in half-inch increments (e.g., 16-34/35), neck sizes span 14.5" (37 cm) to 18.5" (47 cm), with sleeve lengths measured from the center back collar down the shoulder and arm to the wrist bone.
Source: ASTM D6960 / Standard Tailoring Practices
Specs
| Governing Standards | ASTM D6960 / Conventional Bespoke Tailoring Standards |
| Standard Callout Format | [Neck Size in inches] - [Sleeve Length in inches] (e.g., 16 - 34/35) |
| Collar / Neck Range (Imperial) | 14.5" to 18.5" in 0.5-inch increments (14.5, 15.0, 15.5, 16.0, 16.5, 17.0, 17.5, 18.0, 18.5") |
| Collar / Neck Range (Metric) | 37 cm to 47 cm in 1.0-cm increments (37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47 cm) |
| Sleeve Length Range | 32" (81 cm) to 37" (94 cm) in 1.0-inch increments |
| Dual-Sleeve Sizing (Average) | 32/33 (fits 32"–33") | 34/35 (fits 34"–35") via dual-button cuffs |
| Fit Cuts (Body Taper) | Classic Fit (full) | Contemporary / Slim Fit (-2" waist) | Extra Slim (-4" waist) |
Collar Measurement and the One-Finger Rule
The neck size is measured around the base of the neck where the shirt collar button rests, just below the Adam's apple. Professional tailors add $1/2\text{ inch}$ ($12.7\text{ mm}$) to the exact barefoot skin measurement (the one-finger rule): you should be able to slide one finger comfortably between the buttoned collar and your neck without choking or fabric gaping.
Measuring Sleeve Length (Three-Point Method)
Unlike jacket sleeves which are measured from the shoulder seam, shirt sleeve length is measured via the three-point method:
- Start at the center back of the neck (prominent C7 vertebra).
- Run the tape across the top of the shoulder to the shoulder point.
- Continue down the outside of the slightly bent arm, over the elbow, to $1\text{ inch}$ past the wrist bone (mid-thumb joint).
This ensures that when a jacket is worn over the shirt, exactly $1/4\text{ to } 1/2\text{ inch}$ ($6\text{–}13\text{ mm}$) of shirt cuff peeks out past the tailored suit jacket sleeve.